DISCLAIMER: This article was submitted for informational purposes only. You are performing this mod assuming you have the basic knowledge (as well as common sense) on what you are doing. AudiGeeks.com and the author of this article assumes NO LIABILITY for user install error, and any associated damage and warranty issues by this article. Submitted by: Jeff Lee
Contact Info: jeff@audigeeks.comVehicle: 2003 A4 1.8T (Quattro)
Difficulty: Difficult to some, impossible to some others.
Total elapsed time: 12hours, which is pretty good considering there was no lift, and lack of air tools.
Supplies/Tools Needed: Basic Metric box wrenches, metric obstruction box wrenches, 12-pt “Triple-Square” socket set, Hex socket set, basic metric socket set (having deep sockets would help as well). (I will provide the exact sizes later, I am brain dead right now) Basic COMMON SENSE, box of Band-Aid’s OR Mechanix gloves, 18 inches of chain (I’ll get to that later), and new flywheel and pressure plate bolts from Audi. Having a buddy would also HELP A LOT especially if you don’t have a lift.
The Clutch: (South Bend OFE) – For more information regarding OFE, go here: XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX The pressure plate side uses a heavy duty brass-lined organic lining, while the flywheel side uses a non-abrasive Feramic (Ceramic + Graphite) lining to preserve the surface of the flywheel. This clutch when paired up with the Sachs "SS" sport pressure plate will hold a good ~450ft/lbs of torque. A lower model "HD" pressure plate (from South Bend as well) will hold ~320ft/lbs of torque.
Unless you have a lift, you will need VERY HIGH jack stands. I picked up a set of 6-Ton jack stands at Wal-Mart at 2AM for $15.
After removing the plastic cover, start by removing the exhaust system.
Start disassembling the components according to the Service Manual. Start with the driveshaft then axles.
The axles and drive shaft have now been unbolted.
Remove the slave cylinder. Be VERY careful not to kink of bend the hoses or damage the surrounding wires. Also watch out for the piston, it may wobble around. There are also 2 wiring harnesses that you need to remove and relocate to a safe place.
PLEASE NOTE: DO NOT DEPRESS THE CLUTCH PEDAL PRIOR OR DURING THE JOB. YOU WILL REGRET IT WHEN YOU’RE TRYING TO BLEED THE SLAVE CYLINDER LATER ON. TRUST ME ON THAT ONE. :)Now remove the starter unit. You have OBVIOUSLY disconnected your battery right? If you didn’t, touch that 12v starter wire to any metal object, and you’re in it for an early 4th of July. ;-)
I removed the entire gear box along with the transmission, but you can simply disconnect it.
Now start loosening the 10 bolts from transmission, remove them all except the 2 bottom ones, you’ll need to keep them semi-loose until the transmission is supported. The top one is a PITA, but I managed to fabricate a 20” long extension socket, with 2 swivels which made it come out fairly easy. Be sure not to strip any bolts, or it’s going to be a VERY long night.
Place your jack underneath the transmission and give it some load. Then remove the transmission mounts.
FOR THE NEXT 20 MINUTES, NO PICTURES WERE AVAILABLE, CONSIDER IT AS: “WE ARE CURRENTLY EXPERIENCING TECHNICAL DIFFICULTIES, PLEASE STANDBY” (THIS IS THE GRAND FINALE!) GRAB A BUDDY OR NEIGHBOR ...but this is what happened during that time: The transmission is stuck in pretty tight. Be sure you have a buddy that is supporting the jack, while you are wiggling the transmission left and right.
FINALLY, the transmission is out! Now to take a look at the clutch…
WORD OF ADVICE: GET YOURSELF A GOOD TRANSMISSION JACK, AND NOT A FLOOR JACK LIKE I USED!
...this is what happens when you keep driving on a worn out clutch, for the rivets are grinding down the friction material. Though your pressure plate is always replaced and fairly cheap, the same effect on a flywheel could cost some money (to replace) without the option of resurfacing.
In the meantime go take a small break; coffee, smoke (cigarette or other), restroom..etc
InstallationNow the fun part: Installing the flywheel, clutch, and cover (pressure plate)
To make things easier, get yourself a chain to lock the flywheel to keep the crank from spinning. You will be applying lots of force, plus an additional 90 degrees.
IF YOU ARE NOT USING OEM FLYWHEEL BOLTS: You will need to use teflon-based thread locker, such as Loc-Tite Red to keep the bolts from ever coming loose.
With the flywheel secured with the chain, tighten and torque the flywheel bolts in a STAR-SHAPED pattern! Be sure you have replaced your flywheel bolts. If you used an aftermarket flywheel such as this one (UR/Aasco LWFW), they should be provided by the manufacture—for OE bolt may be too long or too short.
Follow the following torque specs:
You will need to align the transmission parallel to your motor, which at this point should have dropped about an inch or so with the crossmembers unbolted. BE CAREFUL not to jam the fins of the pressure plate, if you do, start saving up for another pressure plate. Line the center of the transmission to the center of the pressure plate (same way you used the alignment tool to mount it). Use a flashlight to browse inside, and use your fingers to “feel” your way in there, making sure everything is aligned. Then EVENLY push the transmission into place. You will have an inch of clearance before you can no longer push the transmission any further. Now is time to insert the LONG bolts on each side, and tightening them evenly to pull the transmission into place.
Finally, put everything back together. Make sure you properly TORQUE every bolt down according to the service manual, especially on moving parts, such as the axles. On rotating parts such as the axle, tighten then torque in a STAR-SHAPED pattern. Most service manuals (including the Bentley) will provide Nm (Newton-Meters), simply multiply the Nm by 0.75, which will give you the approximate foot-pounds of torque.
Hope this will save those "do-it-yourselfers" $1000+ of labor to use towards mods.
